Domaine Ganevat Côtes du Jura Les Chalasses Vieilles Vignes 2016
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🍇 Grape: Chardonnay
🌍 Country: France
📍 Region: Jura
🍃 Viticulture practice: Biodynamic
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The cuvée
Les Chalasses Vieilles Vignes is one of Ganevat's most iconic bottles, 100% Chardonnay from centenarian vines planted in 1902 on the grey-marl slope of Chalasse in Rotalier. Yields are tiny, around 15 hectolitres per hectare. Whole-cluster fermentation à l'ancienne, indigenous yeasts, full malolactic, then roughly four years aging in 500-liter demi-muids on the lees with ouillage. No fining, no filtration, no added sulfur. It is typically the last white Ganevat bottles each year, and the most powerful.
The 2016 vintage was shaped by April frosts that devastated the Jura. Yields collapsed across the region, but what survived produced wines of remarkable concentration and depth. Critics routinely compare Chalasses VV to the great whites of the Côte d'Or, but the saline tension, the chiseled mineral spine, the herbal lift are pure Jura. Expect dense yellow fruit, brioche, hazelnut, citrus oils, and a long, almost electric finish. Drink now through 2040.
About Domaine Ganevat
Jean-François "Fanfan" Ganevat is the 14th generation of his family making wine in Rotalier, in the southern Jura. After years working as cellar master for Jean-Marc Morey in Chassagne-Montrachet, he returned home in 1998 and immediately converted the estate to organic farming, then biodynamics in 2006. He now produces over 40 different cuvées each vintage from 12 hectares of vines, treating each parcelle as its own world.
The wines are made with minimal intervention: indigenous yeasts, long lees aging (often 2 to 11 years), no fining, no filtration, and tiny doses of sulfur, sometimes none at all. His whites are Burgundian in spirit (he uses ouillage, topping up the barrels, rather than the traditional Jura voile), but the saline tension and herbal complexity is unmistakably Jura. Ganevat holds the rare 3-star rating in La Revue du Vin de France, the highest distinction the guide awards. Under any reasonable definition, he is one of France's greatest living winemakers.
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