2009 Julien Labet, Côtes du Jura, Vin de Paille 'Les Chercheurs D'Or'
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🍇 Grape: Savagnin, Chardonnay, Poulsard
🌍 Country: France
📍 Region: Jura
🍃 Viticulture practice: Natural
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About this wine
The 2009 Julien Labet Côtes du Jura Vin de Paille "Les Chercheurs D'Or" — "the gold seekers" — is one of the rarest expressions in the Labet range and one of the most labor-intensive wines made anywhere in France. Vin de Paille is the Jura's legendary straw wine: hand-harvested grapes (Savagnin, Chardonnay, and a touch of Poulsard at Labet) laid out on straw mats or wooden racks to dry for two to three months, allowing the berries to lose up to 60% of their water and concentrate their sugars, acids, and aromatics. The shrivelled grapes are then pressed — yielding only a tiny fraction of juice per kilo of fruit — and fermented slowly in old wooden casks before extended élevage, in this case for several years before bottling.
The 2009 vintage in the Jura was warm and generous, producing a Vin de Paille of remarkable depth: dried apricot, candied orange peel, honey, beeswax, gingerbread, walnut, and the cool mineral lift that distinguishes the Labet style from heavier Jura sweet wines. The bottle is small — Vin de Paille is traditionally a half-bottle — but the wine drinks slowly, builds in the glass, and ages effortlessly for decades. A serious dessert wine, a stunning match for foie gras and Comté, and one of the more thoughtful examples of a near-extinct tradition.
About Domaine Labet
Domaine Labet is one of the most respected estates in the Jura, based in the village of Rotalier in the Sud Revermont. Founded by Alain and Josette Labet and now run by their children Julien and Charline, the domaine farms around 12 hectares of low-yielding old vines on the Jura's distinctive marl and limestone soils. The family was among the early pioneers of organic and biodynamic viticulture in the region, and Julien — who took over winemaking in the early 2010s — has built a global reputation for his rigorous, terroir-transparent Chardonnays and Savagnins, bottled by individual parcel and aged at length in old wood. The Vin de Paille is a sideline of love: tiny production, painstaking craft, and quietly one of the great sweet wines of France.
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